Naples. The word alone triggers something in pizza fans. For me, it was the second visit – on my first trip, I stayed longer and trained directly with the AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana). But this trip was another dimension entirely.
No trade fair, no solo trip. This time I was a guest of Andrea from La Bottega di Gusti – with whom we at PizzaLaden.at share a close and warm partnership. Andrea organized a true culinary journey for his customers and business partners, and we were allowed to join. A big thank you for that! 🙏
5 days. Over 80,000 steps. And a list of pizzerias, trattorias, manufactories, and wineries that I don’t want to withhold from you here.
Spoiler: I didn’t eat a single bad pizza. Not one.
Day 1 – Arrival & the first pizza
With Austrian Airlines from Vienna to Naples – if you book early enough or wait for promotions, the flights are really cheap. This time we were only 10 minutes late, which for me, after various flights within Germany, was almost a small miracle.
From the airport, we directly booked a taxi via Uber, FreeNow, or WeTaxi – all three apps work without problems in Naples. Briefly dropped off our suitcases at the AirBnb right on Piazza Dante, and we were off.
A quick tip about accommodation: I don’t need a hotel in Naples. The room is just for sleeping. An AirBnb with good reviews, clean, good location – that’s all I need. Sure, maybe it’s on the 3rd floor without an elevator and located in a back alley. But it’s right on Via Toledo and costs significantly less.
I also don’t need breakfast in the room in Naples. I get it at the café right at the bar: Cappuccino + Cornetto Pistacchio, about €3.60. Important: If you sit down, you pay more.
The first pizza in Naples
Our group’s introductory dinner took place at Pizzeria Errico Porzio Lungomare (Google Maps). Right on the promenade, with a view of the sea – an ideal start. There we all met each other: a colorful mix of pizza lovers, restaurateurs, and ambitious home bakers.
Besides the pizza, the Crocche – fried potato croquettes with Provola – were already a taste of what Naples has to offer culinarily.
Afterwards, we walked together through the alleys of the old town up to Via Toledo towards Chalet Ciro – the famous Graffa awaits you there. The Graffa is basically a Neapolitan donut, freshly fried and dusted with powdered sugar. Unfortunately, Chalet Ciro was already closed that evening. What do you do then? You treat yourself to an ice cream. 🍦
Day 2 – Da Michele, AVPN & Fish Market
We started the second day with breakfast in a cafeteria with a direct view of the fish market. Accompanied by a Sfogliatella – this is that wonderful flaky pastry from Naples, filled with sweet ricotta. If the freshly delivered fish doesn’t affect your appetite, you’ll love it: you can practically see live how the catch arrives, is put on ice, and made ready for sale.
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
After a short rain shower and an espresso for shelter under large umbrellas, we marched to probably the most famous address in Naples: L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. Since we were a larger group, we had to wait a bit – you can pass the time with drinks opposite, but they cannot be taken inside.
At da Michele, the menu is as simple as it is consistent: exactly 4 pizzas – Marinara, Margherita, Cosacca, and the Marita (half/half). Nothing more is needed. This is precisely the principle of authentic Neapolitan pizza: few ingredients, but perfectly chosen.
Matozzi – AVPN history you can touch
After that, another number 2: Ristorante Pizzeria Matozzi (Google Maps) – one of the oldest pizza restaurants in Naples and part of the founding history of the AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana). Here we ate Pizza Fritta for the first time: fried pizza dough, in this case filled, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. Served with Crocche and Arancini.
Especially nice: Afterwards, we had a conversation about Neapolitan pizza with the owner and Paolo Surace, the General Secretary of the AVPN. Moments like these don’t happen everywhere.
In the evening, our first solo outing: Pescheria Azzurra – a fish shop that is also a restaurant. You can only get fresher fish if you catch it yourself. Afterwards, we walked through the alleys and had tiramisu at Leopoldo – according to local recommendation, one of the best in Naples. Interesting detail: an entire counter with gluten-free delicacies (Senza Glutine) – they take it very seriously there.
Day 3 – Pasta Manufactory, Lido & Winery Sorrentino
Marulo in Boscoreale
By bus to Boscoreale to Marulo – a small but fine pasta manufactory. I’ll say it right away: the products are completely convincing. The principle is as simple as it gets: semola and water. Nothing more. But what happens in production – the recipe, the kneading time, the long drying times – that’s what makes the difference.
We were allowed to go into production (with protective clothing): presses, dies, drying racks. A single die for the press weighs 20 to 25 kilograms, by the way. The Neptune mold is particularly impressive.
Luigi, one of the two brothers who run the manufactory, promised to answer a few interview questions for the blog – more on that soon!
👉 And yes: Marulo pasta will soon be available in our shop at PizzaLaden.at. If you want to know when it’s available, it’s best to sign up for our newsletter.
Lido Nettuno
Luigi invited us to Lido Nettuno, which was being prepared for the summer season. Black sand, private beach, its own pizza ovens right by the sea. The 4-course meal with wine pairing – the wines came from the Sorrentino winery right on Vesuvius – was simply one of the best meals of this trip. And the pizza there was one of the best I’ve ever eaten. Period.
Winery Sorrentino on Vesuvius
From Boscoreale, we continued up to Winery Sorrentino – right on the slopes of Vesuvius. Exclusive insights behind the scenes, through the wine cellar, and then a hike through the vineyards.
What truly fascinated me: The vines are cultivated up to a height of 600 meters – they don’t go any higher. The roots reach 4 meters and deeper into the soil in some places because no artificial irrigation is allowed (only in the first three years). And the olive trees in between? They block the salty wind that harms the grapes.
After the hike: a tasting with 9 different wines, grown at different altitudes. Accompanied by a breathtaking view: the sea in front of us, the volcano behind us. Luckily, the bus took us back up – after nine samples, the descent would have been quite athletic.
We ended the day at the trattoria “A Cucina ra casa mia” – with the Neapolitan specialty Genovese (a slow-cooked onion ragù on pasta, nothing to do with Genoa!) and musical accompaniment.
Day 4 – Cheese, Pizza Direct Comparison & ESC Vibe
Sogni di Latte in Vomero
Anyone who thinks cheese is cheese will be taught otherwise in Naples. The journey to Sogni di Latte in the Vomero district was a bit of a challenge – many stairs, which must have demanded a few Hail Marys from some. But it was absolutely worth it.
Ernesto guided us through the tasting – with a passion and expertise for cheese that is truly infectious. We tasted our way through the complete program: Mozzarella di Bufala Campania DOP in various sizes (yes, size really makes a difference in taste!), aged Parmigiano, short and long-aged Provolone, Provola, Fior di Agerola, and Gorgonzola – sweet, spicy, and as a cake. The latter was a revelation.
Also present was the owner of Tenuta del Lago, who gave us an exclusive insight into buffalo mozzarella production – from buffalo farming to the finished DOP product. Anyone who hasn’t understood yet why real buffalo mozzarella tastes so different from supermarket mozzarella will know it afterwards.
The Great Pizza Comparison
Afterwards, we took the subway back to the old town and then spontaneously: a direct pizza blind tasting. We each got a Margherita from Vincenzo Capuano and from Sorbillo and compared them side by side.
The result? There is no clear winner. One had, in my opinion, the better dough, the other the better tomato sauce and the better Fior di Latte. Taste is subjective – and that’s a good thing. To finish, a Pizza Fritta from Masardona, which was in a league of its own taste-wise.
In the evening: fish restaurant, and then ESC – because the Italian representative came from Naples. There was a Song Contest vibe all over the city. 🎶
Day 5 – Street Food, Pulcinella & Last Supper
The last travel day for most – so let’s take it all in again. We start with Pizza Portafoglio: the folded, tucked-in pizza as a classic Neapolitan street food. Simply wrapped in paper, on the go – that’s how they’ve eaten pizza in Naples for generations.
Then we looked at Pizzeria Brandi from the outside – with the historic sign pointing to the origin story of Pizza Margherita.
Via San Gregorio Armeno
Continuing through the Christmas street (Via San Gregorio Armeno), where nativity scenes and figures of all kinds are sold all year round – from classic to modern, from Jesus to politicians. An experience in itself.
Pulcinella & the Nose
And then: the Pulcinella statue. Rubbing the nose is said to bring good luck – at least that’s the legend. Of course, we did it. 🤲
The best Affogato I’ve ever had
Sounds exaggerated, but it’s not. Not a classic affogato with vanilla ice cream as we know it. Instead: a paper cup with Fior di Latte ice cream, and then directly a fresh espresso from the portafilter. So simple. So good.
The last supper together
We actually wanted to go to Da Attilio – which I remembered very well from my last visit. But: Sunday is now Happy Sunday in Naples, and many of the big pizzerias – Da Attilio, Sorbillo – are closed then. Which I personally find good: rest days are important, also for the family.
So we went to another pizzeria – and the pizza was good there too. There were six of us, we ordered six different pizzas, and everyone tasted a bit of each. The only real problem: In Naples, they can’t cut pizza. Either 4 slices or 8 slices. With 6 people, it gets mathematically complicated. But you manage. 😄
What I’m taking away with me
Footwear: Plan for at least 15,000–20,000 steps per day – we reached over 80,000 in 5 days. Good footwear is absolutely essential.
Breakfast: Go to a café, stand at the bar, buy a cappuccino/espresso and a Sfogliatella. You’ll be glad you did.
Accommodation: AirBnb in the old town beats a hotel. Important are reviews, cleanliness, and location – not elevator and breakfast buffet.
Taxi: Uber, FreeNow, and WeTaxi work reliably.
Pizzeria Shortlist from this Trip:
| Pizzeria | What? | Special Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Errico Porzio Lungomare | Pizza + Fritti | Great start, right on the promenade |
| L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele | 4 pizzas, nothing more | Icon. Plan for waiting time. |
| Matozzi | Pizza Fritta, Fritti | AVPN history, since 1833 |
| Vincenzo Capuano | Margherita | Magnificent dough |
| Sorbillo | Margherita | Great tomato sauce, Fior di Latte |
| Masardona | Pizza Fritta | Its own category |
Coming soon on PizzaLaden.at
The Marulo pasta from Boscoreale will soon be added to our product range. Luigi, one of the founders, also promised to answer a few interview questions for the blog. That will be interesting – stay tuned.
And if you want to bake Neapolitan pizza at home yourself: Check out our Caputo flours and the matching pizza accessories. The rest is up to the dough – and your passion.
Ciao and Buona Pizza – Klausi 🍕